Everyone goes crazy over the breads at Cacia's and Sarcone's, but their traditional Italian loaves are as tasty as cotton to me. But South Philly's Varallo Brothers' bread and rolls are dense, chewy, flavorful creations similar to the rustic country breads that go for up to twice as much at la-dee-dah artisan bakeries like Le Bus and Metropolitan. (1639 S. 10th St., 215-952-0367) —Carolyn Wyman